Tag: Patrik Ervell
New York fashion week is underway, and as ever, the menswear shows will play their part, lightly peppered across the schedule, and often held at smaller, more intimate locations than the media carnival around the major league womenswear shows at the Lincoln Centre. During fashion week, the island of Manhattan is invaded by an army of fashionable women (and some men) from across the U.S., the former generally rivaling the tall buildings in their heels, all seemingly in a constant rush and making as much noise about it as possible. The menswear shows tend to have a more sedate feel, as a select and recognisable crew gathers in warehouse spaces and studios around Chelsea and the Meatpacking District to demonstrate their allegiance to the idea of men’s fashion in New York.
But changes are afoot, with the recent announcement … Read More »
There’s less than two weeks to go now until New York fashion week, and I’m thrilled to be attending again and in particular to be there for the Duckie Brown show on 6 September.
A year ago I had the great opportunity to interview Steven and Daniel in their studio, and was very impressed by their openness to discuss their work and lives together. The SS12 Duckie collection was beautiful and thought-provoking, epitomised by the ‘bruised rose’ prints on track-suit shapes, drawing a tense line between perceived masculinities. The subsequent Autumn/Winter collection was full of a darker, countercultural introspection. If the invite is anything to go by, SS13 is going to be full … Read More »
I’m finding it really hard to separate what I saw in London today and in New York over a week ago, in terms of what we may be wearing when the light returns to us next Spring. Add to that, the distraction of current streetwear trends, spottted between Shoreditch and Williamsburg, especially in our globally-warmed times..
But here goes: 10 trends from London’s Menswear Day, 22 September 2010
1. The Great Outdoors: Waxed, outdoor, wipeclean, waterproof fabrics (from Carolyn Massey’s extended cagoule pockets, to Lou Dalton’s Anglo-trad waxing), if you’re going to get wet, be waterproof.
2. Statement Sweaters: A crossover trend from womenswear (hello Henry Holland’s cutie giraffes and foxy foxes). From Carolyn’s jazzy Deco stripe, to Sibling’s Pop Art Punk to Tigersushi Furs’ colourful tigers. It’s like graphic sweaters never happened.
3. Shorts with jackets: In other, words, the short trouser lives to see another season of Alexis Petridis-flouting urban retaliation. Men got hot legs living in the big city. And short trousers need not mean schoolboy. Seen at Lou Dalton and Carolyn Massey and just about everywhere else.
4. Visible layers: the old ‘playing with proportion chestnut’. This doesn’t just mean not tucking in your shirt, though long T-shirts worn with shorter sweaters are a definite trend. Seen at: Carolyn Massey (and at Duckie Brown in NY).
5. Backpacks and camping. Also a trend for A/W. But let’s face it, aren’t you more likely to be carrying stuff somewhere meaningful outdoors when the sun’s shining? Brownie points for detail at Carolyn Massey, where the rucksacks looked positively sombre (and at Patrik Ervell, NY, where the straps were of woven horsehair).
6. Military details. Again, this is a current trend likely to be still aflame come the Spring/Summer. Olive greens, military khakis. Basically: raid your local Army Surplus store and, where possible; customise, wear stuff inside out and generally subvert it’s regulated purpose. Olive green waxed jacket seen at Lou Dalton, military pockets/cargo at Casely Hayford, and a trend that will run and run, a bit like plaid.
7. Biker. Ah, yes. Are we just working through the entire back catalogue of classic Americana? Best seen when it’s not actually in leather: Casely Hayford faux denim, Sibling knitwear etc.
8. Mustard, brick, rust, peach. Let’s just drag the colour slider over to the reds and yellows section. Colours of earth and mud. From Carolyn Massey’s Colman’s mustard waterproofs to James Long’s oil print spillages.
9. Elasticated hems. Blouson! Add an 80s touch to any outfit. See New Power Studio’s sportswear.
10. Eclectic, patchwork madness. Yes, that IS a theme. From Lou Dalton’s carefully placed, ethnic panelling, to James Long’s inky colour explosions, to the doily-clad chaos of J.W Anderson it’s partly about extravagant mixture. Long and short. Patterned and plain. Functional and exotic. It’s a long way from considered urbanity or preppy uniformity. Let’s get messy!
Bubbling under: encroaching darkness (ASOS Black, NY’s Oak), and the likelihood of a spin-off trend of raised soles once Prada’s ‘platform’ men’s shoes hit the expensivo racks next Spring . OK, this was about LONDON right? but we’re a badly defended island as far as fashion influence goes (and long may that continue).
So, my jaunt to New York for at least some of fashion week has come to an abrupt end and I’m left wondering where my next cup of Stumptown coffee is coming from. I did a quick whizz around my beloved downtown menswear boutiques (summed up below) yesterday afternoon, and had my eyes and ears open for the buzz on the street about the best of the menswear shows (Patrik Ervell and Duckie Brown it seeems).
So firstly, those boutiques. I’d been quite distraught that my very favourite spot, BBlessing, has closed down, but I have to say I was very impressed with Odin, on Lafayette, which even seems to have inherited BB’s signature emblem of a raven for itself. The spacious, menswear-only store features current favourites like Gitman … Read More »
New York was crazy last night! Even if you chose to stay in your hotel room and live vicariously through the Twitter/blogger spheres (which my exhausted feet tell me I didn’t) the sheer range of events and the numbers of people involved would be truly staggering. From Iggy Pop on stage at the POP (geddit?) party at Don Hill’s, to Karen Elson at Balenciaga to the roadblocked Opening Ceremony French-themed fleamarket at the Ace hotel and various downtown block parties, Manhattan was gridlocked with fashion people schlepping from hotspot to hotspot across the island.
My personal experience was a mix of hits and misses: next year I will come much more prepared with a strict schedule that doesn’t rely so much on scarce taxis.
Highlight for me was the Opening Ceremony event at the … Read More »