Tag: Pitti June 10

Jil Sander menswear at Pitti: Acid thunder

Posted on 17th June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 3 Comments

Following a tip off from Fantastic Man’s @charlie_porter I just watched the Jil Sander show at Pitti Uomo in Florence online. I’m still amazed by the democracy that such a step as broadcasting catwalk shows over the internet evidences. Now THIS is the type of live event I do want to watch. Real-time tweeting with menswear Twitter stalwarts Steve @StyleSalvage (who was there in person) and London designer @johnhlittle, added to the sense of live-ness. And the clothes? I loved the confidence with colour. Raf Simons has definitely moved on from his days of Gothic gloom and post-punk hardness. The cinched-back jackets, rolled sleeves and long, belted suit jackets were a playful take on shape and structure but the most outstanding element was those COLOURS. Sometimes layered in single-colour pieces, othertimes it was an acid flash(back) – the cinched belts on the jacket reverse, the acid coloured shoe soles. This colour frenzy though was grounded by the contrast with simple white shirt/black tie/black jacket and some really strong, youthful suiting in a lovely deep blue. That’s if anything could be said to be grounded with the incredible Madchester-era, acidic house music pumping away throughout. If there was one item I’d want to beg, borrow or steal it would be the acid striped sweater: thick vertical lines in modernist colours taking a detour towards the top of the sweater into a neat, square angle.

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