Tag: Public School


A look back at Public School, the new creative directors of DKNY

Posted on 18th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Visiting New York for fashion week a few years ago, Public School were one of the brands I came across, and enthused about to a then largely disinterested audience in the UK, still hyped up on the success of London C0llections: Men at drawing the fashion world’s attention to menswear and the emergence of  homegrown talent in particular. I continued to cover the brand’s presentations for The Guardian, which usually took place at Milk Studios where other New York menswear hopefuls such as Rochambeau, staged concurrent presentations on the Sunday night of fashion week, providing focus in a city where menswear is illiberally sprinkled across the week’s schedule. From the first, designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow stuck to a clear formula; a refined version of New York’s no-fuss streetwear, in the form of MA1s, biker jackets and mesh … Read More »


New York menswear, before, during and after Fashion Week

Posted on 13th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

New York fashion week is underway, and as ever, the menswear shows will play their part, lightly peppered across the schedule, and often held at smaller, more intimate locations than the media carnival around the major league womenswear shows at the Lincoln Centre. During fashion week, the island of Manhattan is invaded by an army of fashionable women (and some men) from across the U.S., the former generally rivaling the tall buildings in their heels, all seemingly in a constant rush and making as much noise about it as possible. The menswear shows tend to have a more sedate feel, as a select and recognisable crew gathers in warehouse spaces and studios around Chelsea and the Meatpacking District to demonstrate their allegiance to the idea of men’s fashion in New York.

But changes are afoot, with the recent announcement … Read More »


New York Fashion Week SS15: my round-up

Posted on 8th September, by Colin Chapman in menswear, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

New York fashion week is underway and amidst all the big-guns productions the final menswear shows of the fashion year (and what those attending them are wearing) confirm the trends for next summer.

New York fashion week is largely dominated by womenswear but there are menswear shows in the schedule too and New York retains a small but well formed core of talented young designers showing progressive men’s fashion. In addition, trends have had soak time and as the last big showcase of menswear in the annual calendar what editors and buyers are wearing to the shows this week is a good indication of what everyone else will want to be wearing next spring/summer (it’s also most likely what will be the shops).

1. New York menswear designers are doing really well at designing womenswear too. CFDA menswear designers of the year … Read More »


Menswear at New York fashion week reviewed

Posted on 12th September, by Colin Chapman in New York, New York Fashion Week. 1 Comment

My round up from The Guardian earlier this week, in case you missed it there or aren’t a Guardian visitor.

New York fashion week concludes soon and the more interesting menswear shows this week demonstrated that beneath the city’s reputation for understatement beats a less conventional heart

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown are New York’s premier menswear experimentalists, and on Friday among the most surprising pieces in their collection were skirts and aprons inspired by sportswear and uniforms, shown alongside classic shapes such as bomber jackets and shorts. The idea of men in skirts still provokes strong reactions, which is why bolder menswear designers continue to return to it.

This collection was grounded in solid colours reminiscent of uniforms – navy, grey and khaki – and paired up with the solid heft of the … Read More »


New York Fashion Week Diary: SS13

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in 2013, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow presented a subversive and very European spin on classic layers at Milk on Sunday. The blazers, signature biker jackets, mesh layers and and big kudos for the solid-colour white and navy Doc Marten shoes.

Public School, presentation Sunday 9 September

One of the strongest looks, all white, featuring layered hems and a beautiful padded biker gilet.

The New York Time’s Bruce Pask gets the designer walk-through treatment from Dao-Yi Chow.

The collision of the facial tattoo trend and it-boy model in one person doesn’t detract from this strong tailored jacket.

Rochambeau, presentation Sunday 9 September
One of the benefits of the scrum of menswear day at Milk studios was being able to sneak into neighbouring presentations. I’m so glad I did when it came to Rochambeau. An impactful presentation inspired by the … Read More »

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