Tag: Raf Simons


North: Identity, Photography, Fashion exhibition opens in Liverpool

Posted on 6th January, by Colin Chapman in London Fashion Week, photography. No Comments

Following a press launch last night, the exhibition North, exploring the depiction of Northern England in art, photography and fashion collections has just opened in, appropriately enough, Liverpool. Curated by Lou Stoppard and Adam Murray, the exhibition includes iconic imagery by such celebrants of the Northern aesthetic as Raf Simons alongside profiles of Northern-born image makers such as Alasdair McLellan, Simon Foxton and Christopher Shannon, demonstrating that the impact of Northern England on our visual culture goes far beyond the familiar tropes.


New exhibition Mad About The Boy will open during London Collections: Men

Posted on 11th December, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

Mad About The Boy, curated by Showstudio alumnus Lou Stoppard, opens on 8 January exploring fashion’s obsession with youth, focuses on the way ideas of the teenage boy are constructed through definitive collections and fashion images. Inspired by designers’ fascination with youth culture, Mad About The Boy will examine the motifs and parallels within fashion’s treatment of youth.

The exhibition will collate the work of designers and image-makers including: Raf Simons, J W Anderson, Nick Knight, Larry Clark, Jason Evans, Kim Jones, Meadham Kirchhoff, Tyrone Lebon, Nasir Mazhar, Martine Rose, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Christopher Shannon, Judy Blame, Undercover, Patrick Robyn and more.
Read More »


The Belgians. An Unexpected Fashion Story – exhibition preview

Posted on 28th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Next week a new exhibition opens at the BOZAR centre for fine arts in Brussels, exploring the rise of Belgian fashion designers and their huge influence on the international fashion scene. Presumably the ‘unexpected’ in the exhibition title comes from the fact that at least in other regards, Belgium remains something of an enigma in Europe; Brussels bringing to mind bureaucratic officialdom rather than world class design, and, in the main, Belgian culture being less readily identifiable than that of some of its European neighbours. But as last year’s Dries Van Noten exhibition and the recent Dior film profiling Raf Simons indicates, there is much more to this little country than reputation might allow.

What is clear is that the impact of the Read More »


5 details to savour from the Milan/Paris AW15 menswear shows

Posted on 23rd January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

I have to confess that the Pitti/Milan leg of the current triathlon of menswear that is the European menswear shows was a bit of a blur. After seeing SO many shows and presentations at LC:M this season, the Italian shows whizzed by with the haste of a Vespa slash-and-grab chase. Now Paris is midway through, and it feels like a good moment to pause and reflect on what’s been shown since London and to focus in on some of the most beautiful details. If there’a anything that feels like a common thread here, its a desire for futurism, a desire to see what the future might look like even if that involves elements of the past reimagined.

1. The Nemeth fabric at Louis Vuitton
I am a huge fan of Kim Jones. From his Read More »


In the studio with Diego Vanassibara

Posted on 13th April, by Colin Chapman in menswear, Shoes. No Comments

The recipients of New Gen Men, one of London’s most highly regarded initiatives for fledgling menswear design talent, were announced this week by the BFC. Backed by Topman, the scheme provides successful recipients with tailored mentoring support alongside their sponsorship, with a view to helping these emerging designers build their businesses. Among the latest line-up (and receiving the New Gen funding for the second time running) is shoe designer Diego Vanassibara. Diego cuts a dash not only with his unique personal style but also as the solitary men’s shoe designer within the line-up of colourful, largely East London-based fashion designers.

I caught up with Diego in his refreshingly leafy, suburban studio to discuss all things shoes. Originally from the South of Brazil, Diego initially studied architecture in his native country. Finding … Read More »


Eyes down at the Men’s collections, AW14: focus on footwear

Posted on 17th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, London Collections: Men, Shoes. No Comments

As a confirmed shoe obsessive my camera lens is often to be found pointing at floor level when attending fashion shows and presentations, even when footwear isn’t the intended focus. At the recent London shows there were two strong themes evident, which have continued on into the Milan and Paris collections.

Firstly there was a definite element of fashion following the austerity agenda with simple, utilitarian shoes on display, apparently reflecting the uniforms of working men (quite literally on the wet pavements at Topman Design). And secondly, we saw the continuing influence of trainers and sportswear details in high-fashion footwear.

However, this being fashion, looks can be deceiving, so apparently straightforward shapes like simple workaday oxfords turned out to have a subtle, metallic sheen (as at Common) or were high-gloss with elements of bright colour at the sole … Read More »


Summer footwear: YMC and Raf Simons for Adidas

Posted on 16th July, by Colin Chapman in AW12, menswear, Shoes. No Comments

At the recent menswear shows I caught a glimpse of some of the more adventurous summer footwear heading our way next year: glossy winkle pickers at Jonathan Saunders, bright suede espadrilles at Mr Hare, and endless variations on high-tech, luxury trainers and printed pumps. Colourful monkstrap shoes are also set to be popular.

Summer footwear for men can be a challenge: no one really wants to (or should) be wearing sticky flip-flops on their daily commute, sandals often divide opinion and preppy boat shoes and loafers are just looking a bit tired. With all that in mind, here are a couple of my current summer favourites: a smart sandal and a high-tech, futuristic trainer.

The sandals are from British brand Read More »


Film & fashion: Insouciant, moi? Ryan Gosling in Blue Valentine

Posted on 26th January, by Colin Chapman in Film and fashion. No Comments

I like to think I helped popularise use of the word ‘insouciant’. In fashion circles, at least. I picked it up from my interest and studies in film history, where it has typically been used to describe the kind of ‘not acting whilst acting’ of such slouching, shrugging male archetypes as James Dean. I don’t think it was used much in fashion before a couple of years ago, but as with many things, a retweet here, a blogpost or comment there and ‘insouciance’ is everywhere. The word is now mostly in the bargain bin marked, ‘overused’, yet marked for a future revival.

Yet, whilst watching Blue Valentine last night, the startling indie movie now nominated for 2 Oscars, there are few words that could better describe Ryan Gosling’s visual appeal as  bluecollar antihero Dean. … Read More »


Jil Sander menswear at Pitti: Acid thunder

Posted on 17th June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 3 Comments

Following a tip off from Fantastic Man’s @charlie_porter I just watched the Jil Sander show at Pitti Uomo in Florence online. I’m still amazed by the democracy that such a step as broadcasting catwalk shows over the internet evidences. Now THIS is the type of live event I do want to watch. Real-time tweeting with menswear Twitter stalwarts Steve @StyleSalvage (who was there in person) and London designer @johnhlittle, added to the sense of live-ness. And the clothes? I loved the confidence with colour. Raf Simons has definitely moved on from his days of Gothic gloom and post-punk hardness. The cinched-back jackets, rolled sleeves and long, belted suit jackets were a playful take on shape and structure but the most outstanding element was those COLOURS. Sometimes layered in single-colour pieces, othertimes it was an acid flash(back) – the cinched belts on the jacket reverse, the acid coloured shoe soles. This colour frenzy though was grounded by the contrast with simple white shirt/black tie/black jacket and some really strong, youthful suiting in a lovely deep blue. That’s if anything could be said to be grounded with the incredible Madchester-era, acidic house music pumping away throughout. If there was one item I’d want to beg, borrow or steal it would be the acid striped sweater: thick vertical lines in modernist colours taking a detour towards the top of the sweater into a neat, square angle.

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