Tag: Savile Row

Hostem Bespoke at The Chalk Room – Spring 2013

Posted on 20th February, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, Fashion launch. No Comments

One of the joys of being involved in men’s fashion is being able to have meaningful conversations with people about clothes that go well beyond a personal shopping agenda. And this morning at the launch of Hostem’s Bespoke offering there was much to learn and discuss with some of London’s most talented artisan menswear designers, including Sharpened Lead favourite Casely Hayford and master shoemaker Sebastian Tarek.

Through the pioneering Redchurch Street boutique, Casely-Hayford are offering made-to-measure suits and shirts, with prices (for a suit) starting at an approachable £1200. As Charlie was keen to remind us, the benefit of something made to measure is that it will be created to accommodate the quirks of an individual body (we all have them, … Read More »

London’s finest interviewed: E.Tautz

Posted on 8th June, by Colin Chapman in E.Tautz, London Collections: Men. No Comments

With less than a week to go now until the launch of London Collections: Men, it seems very fitting to be posting about the house of E.Tautz and it’s designer, Patrick Grant. Last season I witnessed Patrick backstage, remarkably calm whilst models took their final walks (hairclips still in place) and this sense of quiet yet purposeful confidence is a great sentiment I think to be carrying forward as next week’s schedule kicks in. E.Tautz would inevitably end up on any list I drew up of the best of London menswear, and has long been championed by me here because of the unique mix of history with a thoroughly modern approach to designing clothes for men. Patrick’s singular vision … Read More »

Size really does matter: true attention to detail at E.Tautz SS11

Posted on 5th November, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 2 Comments

Having missed both the Barney’s trunk display in NY and what sounded like a great presentation on LFW Menswear day here back in September, I was delighted to have the opportunity to have a personal talk through the E.Tautz SS11 collection by Patrick Grant himself at their 9 Savile Row address a couple of weeks ago.

Despite having taken a transatlantic flight the night before, Patrick was impeccably groomed as ever, in a dark grey suit from the first E.Tautz collection, black knitted tie and tasselled loafers.

My first impressions from the rack of the E.Tautz line for next spring was that it’s a more casual, approachable collection with a colour theme involving lots of blue. This lighter take on English dressing was confirmed by Patrick, who explained that some of the more structured, fitted pieces had been edited out of this … Read More »

The gentleman behind the brand: Patrick Grant and E.Tautz

Posted on 27th April, by Colin Chapman in Label Category. 5 Comments

Following my post about E. Tautz back in February, label owner Mr Patrick Grant was kind enough to offer me a talk through collections past, present and future (via a  glimpse of the sketches for Spring Summer 11) at their new Savile Row space, yesterday. It’s not every day you meet a Fantastic Man poster boy (see pages 66-73 current issue), but I have to say that Patrick was every bit as affable as Steve at Style Salvage documented in his interview and label profile last month.

What’s more, Patrick proved to be an absolute font of stories and knowledge about the production techniques and origins of the items in his collections. So, as we went through the … Read More »

Tautz by name..

Posted on 27th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 2 Comments

British brand E. Tautz benefits from a name that partially describes what it does – as in being taut, the tension between tradition and something more dangerously stylish. With a venerable Savile Row tradition (‘sporting the Tautz’ was a phrase once used to describe it’s styles, worn by the likes of Cary Grant), the brand is one of a generation of W1 tailoring firms re-establishing their relevance.

During LFW they presented a series of looks making their position clear: classic tailoring with elements of British quirkiness. This is real power dressing. Prince of Wales checks, double-breasted blazers and Harris tweeds. Classic dressing can so easily pass over into costume but not here, where the accessories and clear intention make it so relevant for our times.

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