I have to admit to my heart sinking slightly when reading the title of General Idea’s show at Eyebeam studio in New York during NYFW: The Last Lumberjack. But I should have trusted that Korean designer Bumsuk Choi’s creative vision would be far more interesting than just another encounter with American heritagewear. From the first look, involving a revitalised camo fabric shot through with neon green, this was a collection that tantalised the eye with colour.
And then I spotted the shoes… chunky, outdoorsy hiking boots and tough looking trainer hybrids, again with neon highlights. Not dissimilar to the neon colours used by Prada in the more outré (and little photographed) end of their recent golfing-inspired footwear line, the bright pinks, oranges and neon yellow make these sturdy looking shoes instantly modern, urban and relevant. Styling throughout focused on the combination … Read More »
As a former architect, it is perhaps not surprising that Siki Im was at pains last week to point out that his SS13 collection Ghost Ranch, named after the isolated desert sanctuary of artist Georgia O’Keefe, was inspired by Keefe’s home and life there rather than by her output as an artist. Im is known for bringing the conceptual to New York menswear, so the pedantic emphasis on the exact source of his inspiration is also fitting. What this meant in terms of the collection, is that alongside his trademark black and white pieces, colours such as slate and bone were used, suggestive of the arid landscape of the burnt American plains.
The fabrics, from crisp cotton shirting through loose knits, leather and wool, reflected the harshness and purity of the desert landscape. The napes of models’s necks … Read More »
It’s reached that point in the week after the menswear shows when reportage needs to switch over into analysis. As atmospheric as the shows can be, at some point it’s necessary to start to filter, retaining only the really memorable and striking. Which makes it an ideal moment to talk about Lou Dalton‘s collection for Spring/Summer 13. This was a perfectly edited collection: simple shapes, a handful of great colours and materials, no fuss, no ephemeral fluff or unnecessary detail. Which feels exactly right for menswear. As Lou hinted at in our pre-collection interview a couple of weeks ago, the collection was inspired by the underdog. This struck me as a continuing theme in Lou’s work; in previous collections we’ve seen looks inspired by Romany cardsharks and by young men piecing together … Read More »