My round up from The Guardian earlier this week, in case you missed it there or aren’t a Guardian visitor.
New York fashion week concludes soon and the more interesting menswear shows this week demonstrated that beneath the city’s reputation for understatement beats a less conventional heart
Duckie Brown are New York’s premier menswear experimentalists, and on Friday among the most surprising pieces in their collection were skirts and aprons inspired by sportswear and uniforms, shown alongside classic shapes such as bomber jackets and shorts. The idea of men in skirts still provokes strong reactions, which is why bolder menswear designers continue to return to it.
This collection was grounded in solid colours reminiscent of uniforms – navy, grey and khaki – and paired up with the solid heft of the … Read More »
Boys keep swinging: Duckie Brown’s SS14 collection doesn’t skirt around the issue of what men can wear.
Duckie Brown today played up to their reputation for being New York’s premier experimentalists in the form of menswear. And playing is the right word to use, not in the sense of being pointlessly frivolous but in the idea of a childlike refusal to accept rules as rules and to continuously test boundaries, especially when it comes to what can be worn and by whom. In the opening moments, a spoken word soundtrack, voiced by children, expressed the arbitrariness of male and female dress codes and their impact on aspirations and identities, a sentiment later underlined by the lyrics of some driving adult-vocalled hip hop.
Backstage before the show, Read More »
Peter Jensen‘s collection for next Spring/Summer is inspired by fallen Hollywood star and socialite Paulette Goddard and her milieu, including one Andy Warhol. The women’s resort collection was photographed alongside the SS14 menswear, including some stunning images of a young Goddard-like socialite and her friend Mr Warhol, admirably played here by young models. The menswear is made up of simple separates bridging the gap between downtown daywear and clothes for that upscale loft party later. The colour palette spans Pop Art brights and strong monochromes (reminiscent of Andy’s screenprints).
“I like the idea of this chic old lady sitting smoking at Studio 54, dressed in Pop Art colours, telling everybody how rich she is and that she used to be a famous movie star.”
Intrigued by those lookbook images I asked Peter … Read More »