Tag: Tailoring


Rakish progress: 5 things I loved about E.Tautz AW14

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

There was always a sense of history and storytelling in E.Tautz, from the intimate days when Patrick talked us through the collection to more recent shows in the vast space of The Old Sorting Office. In that more intimate past the story was often in the fabrication itself and needed to be interpreted or, better still, touched for the specialness of the pieces to be really understood. Backstories of the home knitters, the mills, the history of a fabric like Ventile were an essential part of the E.Tautz DNA then but recent collections have had a more wide-screen appeal, both in the presentation on a big stage and the literal impact of the clothing. A commenter on my Guardian-published round-up last week … Read More »


Hostem Bespoke at The Chalk Room – Spring 2013

Posted on 20th February, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, Fashion launch. No Comments

One of the joys of being involved in men’s fashion is being able to have meaningful conversations with people about clothes that go well beyond a personal shopping agenda. And this morning at the launch of Hostem’s Bespoke offering there was much to learn and discuss with some of London’s most talented artisan menswear designers, including Sharpened Lead favourite Casely Hayford and master shoemaker Sebastian Tarek.

Through the pioneering Redchurch Street boutique, Casely-Hayford are offering made-to-measure suits and shirts, with prices (for a suit) starting at an approachable £1200. As Charlie was keen to remind us, the benefit of something made to measure is that it will be created to accommodate the quirks of an individual body (we all have them, … Read More »



Lou Dalton, AW13: raw terrain and Local Heroes

Posted on 13th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, menswear. 3 Comments

Almost a week ago, Lou Dalton opened London Collections Men: AW13, presenting her collection to an attentive crowd primed for a week of looking at fashion for men. Whilst being the opening act will never be an easy gig, Lou is a perfect choice for this particular role. From the very first look, there was an air of calm accomplishment about her work and under her steady hand, London Collections: Men AW13 was starting out pitch perfect.

It feels right to be reviewing this collection now. By the end of the week of looking at beautiful garments on striking looking men, there is a sense of blur. As much as you want to see more, there is an element of visual fatigue, so going back to the start now feels right.

The City-boy formality of the opening looks … Read More »


Tautz by name..

Posted on 27th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 2 Comments

British brand E. Tautz benefits from a name that partially describes what it does – as in being taut, the tension between tradition and something more dangerously stylish. With a venerable Savile Row tradition (‘sporting the Tautz’ was a phrase once used to describe it’s styles, worn by the likes of Cary Grant), the brand is one of a generation of W1 tailoring firms re-establishing their relevance.

During LFW they presented a series of looks making their position clear: classic tailoring with elements of British quirkiness. This is real power dressing. Prince of Wales checks, double-breasted blazers and Harris tweeds. Classic dressing can so easily pass over into costume but not here, where the accessories and clear intention make it so relevant for our times.

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